One of the most important technical skills an endurance horse can learn is the ability to "trot-out" nicely in hand at vet checks and for best condition judging. Like most skills, this is something that the horse must be taught to do correctly.

Ideally, horses should begin working on this skill from the very beginning of handling. Long before they are started under saddle, every day of work "in hand" should incorporate a little bit of trotting. Varying distances, different places and times -- the idea is that they become accustomed to being asked to trot "in hand"; that they not see it as "work" or anything special, but simply a part of daily handling.

Once the horse is broken to ride, the training should continue on a regular basis. Each rider should try to incorporate a little "running with the horse" into his/her daily routine. One possibility is a short "trot-out" after saddling up and before tightening the girth. This can be followed by a stretch of each foreleg before mounting.

An even better idea is to take the horse for a short run after the ride is over. If possible, pull the saddle and then run with the horse to a flat area where he can roll. Upon arrival, and before the roll, trot him in circles both directions. Again, the point is that he see the trotting in hand as so routine that, tired or not, he expects to trot -- and to be rewarded at the end with a roll. So, to summarize, ideally the horse should begin trotting in hand long before he ever attends an endurance ride and goes through a vet check, and he should be trotted in circles at the conclusion of a workout long before he is ever shown for BC.

For all of the rest of us -- it is never too late to start a program like this. Eventually, the horse should not resent being asked to trot because he will basically take it for granted. He should be trotted in hand (for at least a few strides) almost every time he is handled.

Once you establish a "pattern" in the horse's mind of frequent trot-outs for no apparent reason, they become accustomed to it and more compliant. The biggest problem is the first few times; after that they pick up on your "signals" that you are going to run (a deep breath, changing hold on the lead rope, etc.) and follow quite happily. Don't be afraid to consciously emphasize these signals!

A classic method to "start" them: after leading the horse around at a walk for long enough to be warmed up (i.e., not straight out of the pasture; especially with a green horse I would start, stop, turn several times to get their attention), you "ask for the trot." The best way to do this is to combine a verbal signal (a "tchk-tchk" sound, a spoken "let's go," a clicker, or whatever) with a cue from a long whip. A long dressage whip or a lunging whip with the lash tied to the handle work fine.

The whip would be held in your left hand pointing straight back as you walk; when you cue the trot you tilt it in toward the horse and wiggle it or, in some cases, touch the horse with it on the butt or croup. "Touch," not "strike"! It is simply a signal to move off, and usually they will. This technique also causes them to "take off" from the hind end, resulting in more impulsion and balance -- and a much prettier picture.

For your first few steps, run virtually in place -- and give the horse plenty of rope. It is critical not to hit the end of the rope and jerk on the horse; this will shut them down and lead to long-term resistance. The guiding principle here is that horses are always driven from the hind end, never dragged from the front!

If the horse doesn't come with you, stop before you run out of rope and try again, quietly and patiently. Most horses are trained to lunge; if the horse is particularly difficult you can lunge it a few moments (i.e., making it trot away from the whip) and then repeat immediately with the same cues.

If all of this is absolutely too awkward, get someone else to haze the horse the first few times. Once he knows what is expected he will come; if he knows and doesn't come it is now appropriate to "pop him" with the whip or end of the rope if it's long enough.

Many horses pin their ears during the trot-out. In some cases, there is absolutely nothing that can be done about this. Horses, like ourselves, each have their own personalities -- and are entitled to them. But I have found many times once the horse becomes accustomed to the routine task of trotting, he resents it less.

Other things you can do: horses pick up on our body language. If you are tired and sore and dread the trot, the horse will reflect this. You need to pick up your own energy, force a smile on your face, and make happy, "yippee"-type sounds to the horse. This will hopefully produce a more animated trot.

As far as the ears go, the best trick is to speak to the horse during the trot-out -- quiet but hearty "good boy" or "what a guy" kind of things. His ears should flick toward you when you speak, breaking the pinned look.

Another good trick involves treats. If you frequently give treats from a velcro-type bag you can rip something velcro on your clothing during the trot-out to get his attention. Or crinkle a granola bar wrapper in your pocket . . . any sound that he associates with treats.

Trotting in circles: the horse must trot in both directions. You should be able to stay on the inside of the circle in both directions -- i.e., lead the horse from either side. Because I am lazy, I employ a technique halfway between running and lunging. I run in a small circle on the inside while the horse (on a long rope) trots in a much bigger circle on the outside -- both directions. Again, a horse familiar with lunging should not have a problem with this.